By Web Editor
May 10, 2020
Learn about conifer cultivars, or cultivated varieties, and how to make new plants from old ones.

Photograph by Rowe Arboretum

Although not realized at the time, the development of new cultivars of arborvitae, the hobby of one of the authors, took a giant step forward when it was noted in Chub Harper’s yard that a Thuja occidentalis ‘Filiformis’ was producing seed. For 20 years, the senior author had been planting seeds from Thuja occidentalis cultivars (23 different ones) in an effort to develop something new.

The effort met with success on three occasions, an average of one new cultivar every seven years. Perhaps because Chub realized that new cultivars come more readily from witch’s broom seed (one of Chub’s well known specialties) than from Thuja seed, he gave me carte blanche to pick all I wanted. The yield was not very interesting; half the seedlings had ‘Filiformis’ foliage and half normal foliage.

For a reason which is now not clear, all were discarded or given away except for one with normal foliage which was planted in the yard. It grew into the large non-descript plant shown and out of curiosity some of its seeds were planted.

This “generic” Thuja occidentalis was grown from a seed from ‘Filiformis’. It is unique in that its seeds produced a wide variety of Thuja occidentalis cultivars

Variable Cultivars from Parent Thuja occidentalis
The result was surprising. The seedlings were a bonanza of unique plants, some with foliage which was most typical of Thuja and others with the threadlike foliage of ‘Filiformis’. Of those with foliage resembling Thuja, some were globular, others columnar and a few pyramidal. The amazing part was that they were all progeny of a single, ordinary looking arborvitae.

The uniqueness of such an event is brought home by Humphrey Welch’s statement in his Manual of Dwarf Conifers to the effect that the probability of raising a new dwarf from a packet of conifer seeds is in the order of millions to one against.

To the contrary, we had many from a few seeds. Their variability is too great to be described in a few pages. Thus, we have limited the presentation to only a few, particularly those which are older and more mature.

One of several stands of Thuja occidentalis ‘Filiformis’

Cultivars with ‘Filiformis’ or ‘Filiformis’-like Foliage
Three plants are described as noted above, all came from seed from the mundane tree. Thuja occidentalis ‘Pincushion’ is characterized by whip-like foliage so abundant that it is not possible to see the approximately one inch long trunk. Some of the foliage strands have a very short branch at the end.

It is green in color, but interspersed are a few brown filaments making its name appropirate; the less abundant brown filaments can be considered pins stuck in the abundant green foliage, visualized as the cushion.

The original plant, now seven years old, is 27 inches across and 32 inches tall. Rooted cuttings also have foliage making the trunk invisible. A number of young seedlings have foliage similar to ‘Pincushion’, but differ in that they have easily visible 4- or 5-inch trunks.

Thuja occidentalis ‘Pincushion’. Original plant. The trunk is extremely short

‘Pincushion’, 'Little Filley', and ‘Fuzz Ball’ Conifer Cultivars
The foliage on Thuja occidentalis 'Little Filley' is unique compared to that on ‘Pincushion’. Only an occasional thread-like strand may be seen. Instead, there are many branches coming off at multiple angles, making the plant very irregular.

The branches and branchlets are all of approximately the same diameter and, since they seem to be the only structures containing chlorophyll, one might expect that the growth of the plant would be slow. So far, at age eight years, it is 15 inches tall and 10 inches wide.

Another unique plant is Thuja occidentalis ‘Fuzz Ball’. From a 4-inch single trunk arise several branches (not visible in the photo) which ascend in close apposition for a short distance and then end in threads of ‘Filiformis’ foliage. The foliage is abundant, largely unbranched, and merges to form a very symmetrical single ball.

If the ball should become very large, it could be a valuable accent plant. Its ultimate size can, of course, not be predicted. The plant pictured is 4 years old and 12 inches tall. One cannot judge the chlorophyll content of this plant from the picture since it was taken in the winter when all plants in this category have foliage which is brown and in some cases almost black. The variability of these plants starts when they are about two years old as demonstrated by the two of this age

Thuja occidentalis ‘Little Filley’. Original plant is 7 years old

Cultivars with Foliage More or Less Typical of Thuja
Although the plants with foliage closely resembling typical Thuja were, with some exceptions, not as unique and attractive as those in the other group, they nevertheless came in a number of shapes and sizes. Some were columnar, some globular and some roughly pyramidal.

The foliage on many of these was loose and, in the overall, they were not of the quality of many well-known Thuja. As a consequence, they have not been named or propagated. An example of loose and open structure is seen in the three very similar, roughly pyramidal plants. They seem disinclined to grow tall and might be suitable as a low hedge.

The typical Thuja foliage of two in this group was gold in color and not unlike that of other yellow cultivars. One of these had an occasional ‘Filiformis’ branch. Their poor structure made them inferior to other yellows and, thus, they have not been named or propagated.

Thuja occidentalis ‘Fuzz Ball’. Original plant of an unusual dwarf

Plants which were virtually identical, but coming from different seed, as was the case with the plants illustrated above, were not unusual. The form which was most often replicated was globular or slightly oval and had finely-cut foliage which vaguely resemble that of Thuja because the foliage was of limited length.

The outline of the plant was more smooth than that of the usual globular plant. Because of these characteristics, the first plant was named Thuja occidentalis 'De Luxe'. The numerous subsequent forms had for added interest typical broad Thuja foliage embedded in the finely-cut foliage. These plants still had a smooth outline and from a distance appeared the same as others. They have not been specifically named. As with many globes, these plants when old and large tend to fall apart with a snow
load.

We are attempting to determine whether any of the many seedlings of this type will be resistant to this kind of damage. So far, those which opened up in the winter closed in the spring. As above we have in a rather cavalier fashion separated these plants into two groups based on their foliage, occasional plants such as that here show characteristics of both groups making them impossible to classify.

Two year old seedlings showing variability at an early age

Practical Considerations with Conifer Cultivars
A disadvantage of attempting to duplicate this method of developing new cultivars is the time involved. Thuja occidentalis ‘Filiformis’ rarely produces seeds. Of two approaching 25 years of age, with which the authors are acquainted, one has produced seed once. Once the seed is procured, there is another long wait for the seedlings to produce seed.

This stage might be hastened by the use of plant growth regulators or by girdling or otherwise injuring the tree. Once the seedling (which would be of the generation of the plant) has itself produced seed, there is another wait before the nature of the final product can be determined. This is, of course, when the fun begins.

An unusual columnar plant of this progeny. The foliage is open and loose

Cultivars: A Result of Genetic Chaos in Conifers?
The variability of these plants appears to be the result of some genetic chaos occurring at the time of pollination. This deviation from normal events appears to affect not only the morphology of the plant arising from the embryo, but also the metabolic processes involved in germination and embryonic growth. The latter disruption is probably responsible for a germination rate for these seeds rarely exceeding 30%, a rate much less than that for most cultivars

Of great practical interest about plants from this progeny is that they seem resistant to burning of the foliage by the sun. Whereas we experienced days, in which the temperature hovered about 100 degrees F and Thuja of other progeny were either partially or completely burned, full sun did not cause burning on plants from this progeny, whether the foliage could be classed as Thuja-like or ‘Filiformis’.

For those who may be interested in seeing more of the variability of arborvitae grown from the seed of this plant, 34 different, relatively mature plants are on exhibit at the Stanley M. Rowe Arboretum, 4600 Muchmore Road, Cincinnati, Ohio 45243.

These open and loose pyramidal plants came from di!erent seeds from the generic Thuja occidentalis above

Text and photographs by Clark D. West and Christopher Daeger.

Fairy Gardens, with Conifers!

By Web Editor
March 8, 2021

Fairy garden in a wagon.

Text Elden Wheaton
Photography Ron Elardo

With little fanfare, a new form of gardening has been rapidly gaining ground. Extensive displays of miniature figurines, furniture, and tiny plants, all sold at nurseries, are the telltale elements found in what are known as fairy gardens. They are popping up mostly as indoor gardens and containers, set outside during warm weather in garden beds, or simply maintained in homes and on porches. They meet the need for wanting a garden without having the space or time for a large one. Then there’s the whole cuteness of creating and playing in your own tiny, secret garden, decorated with things like furnishings and accouterments of dollhouses.

At our local nursery in Adrian, MI, the phenomenon has added new kinds of plants, too, many of which are conifers. I have been creating small garden bowls with little conifer forests in them for quite some time. Lately, little conifers have started catching on at our fairy garden classes. Enthusiasts have added conifers among their tchotchkes, /choch-kees/ (Yiddish for a small object, a trinket). The result is a personal expression of one’s imagination, like a bridge to a castle nestled in the woods, or a witch’s hut secluded in the shadow of trees, waiting for Hänsel and Gretel.

The tchotchkes represent anything you can think of; the sky’s the limit. Figurines include gnomes, fairies, animals, and seasonal characters like Santa Claus. A Halloween scene might include scary ghouls and goblins. You can find them all, either online or at your local nursery. Check out the Internet, too. You’ll be surprised what you’ll find when you Google “fairy gardens”. DYI fairy garden ideas will pop up. Stores selling tchotchkes are relatively easy to find. North of Adrian, in Brighton, MI, there is a Fairy Garden Super Store. Suppliers will ship supplies free with certain orders. Also, magazines run how-to articles on fairy gardens. It’s dizzying.

Editor’s Halloween fairy garden with Platycladus orientalis ‘Franky Boy’ (Franky Boy Chinese arborvitae)
and Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Blue Moon’ (Blue Moon sawara false-cypress).

Fairy gardens are very easy to create and manage. So, let’s start with some basic elements:

• You will need a container, something colorful with an interesting shape, but not too deep, to house the garden.

• The soil medium needs to be the kind that holds moisture and allows for good drainage.

• For the planting medium, mix peat, sand, fine basic compost, topsoil in equal amounts, and a handful of horticultural-grade charcoal pieces for improved drainage and moisture retention.

• Save the medium mixture in an airtight container for future gardens.

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Fernspray Gold’ (Fernspray Gold Hinoki cypress) in a small fairy garden.

Now for the conifers.

Any small conifers will work. These will be “baby” conifers that, when planted in the garden, can reach mature heights of 35 feet or taller. One of your jobs with these conifers will be to keep them small. Over time, you will find that the little trees will look mature even though they are kept tiny. Trunks and branches will thicken and give your plants a look of being old. You may even find your trees resembling bonsai. There is ample online information on pruning and keeping miniature trees little, including the tools to do it. I prefer using spruces like Picea mariana ‘Blue Planet’ (Blue Planet black spruce), Picea glauca var. albertiana ‘Elf’ (Elf dwarf Alberta spruce), ‘Pixie’ (Pixie dwarf Alberta spruce), and ‘Pixie Dust’ (Pixie Dust Alberta spruce), but any conifer genera will do. Just start with small specimens, no more than six inches tall. Next, the plants have to be prepped for planting in a semi-shallow container of no more than 12 inches deep.

It’s best to clean the rootballs of their original planting soil. Snip the root tips just a little bit, so that they will be stimulated to grow and grip the new planting medium. That way the roots will begin to spread out and multiply. Gently dig a small place for each plant. Once installed, gently press down the soil around the conifer. Next, use a small cooking baster or eyedropper to water the plants. Like all containerized plants, your new garden should never be allowed to dry out, at least not during the growing seasons (spring, summer, and fall). Use a water probe to know when to water.

During the growing seasons, the fairy garden will need fertilizer. Osmocote 15-9-7 is the best formula. I mix a teaspoon full of fertilizer with water in a bowl for easy application. Just remember that less is better. Too many plant parents think they need to overfeed their babies. Also, pay attention to sun requirements that will depend on the numbers and kinds of plants you install. Most conifers like full sun. However, remember that plants in small containers need to be protected from the sun’s hot, direct rays. Some fairy garden practitioners place their miniature gardens here and there under trees and other plantings in the garden to create surprises.

In Winter, your fairy garden will require more moderate light and minimal watering. If the rootballs freeze, stop watering until spring comes, and the rootballs thaw. Garages with windows are good places to overwinter your conifer fairy garden(s). Attached, unheated garages rarely reach freezing temperatures. Three-season porches are good storage places, too. I say “gardens” because, once you do one, you will want to do more. At a recent fairy garden workshop, one participant created her 24th fairy garden to join all those already housed throughout her home! She was not alone in having a collection of fairy gardens. One definitely leads to several.

Assorted conifers and completed fairy gardens.

Other living elements can be added to complement the conifers. Natural moss can be the lawn. Varieties of small hostas, sedum, and other ground cover perennials can also simulate a lawn. Hillside effects are fun to create, in order to enhance further a three-dimensional landscape. Small-sized gravel and wood chips can duplicate pathways, while stones can mimic rocks and outcroppings, even mountains. Once you have decided on the physical landscape, it’s time to add things like wells, houses, fences, figurines, or whatever else you can find. Even ponds can be simulated with pieces of blue or green plastic.

Fairy gardens are not just for older gardeners. Parents and grandparents have shared the fun with children, who, in turn, exhibit a genuine love for tiny gardening. Children take to it easily and reveal their own flair for the fantastical. In Adrian, containerized conifer classes have been held for children at our city library, private homes, and nursery schools. Children regularly accompany family members to fairy garden classes at our nursery. They like building and tending their own gardens.

ACS members will be gratified to know that conifers have now become part of this activity. Who knows? Maybe the youngsters creating fairy gardens today might be planting full-sized conifers in their gardens tomorrow and might even be joining the American Conifer Society. Whatever the age, fairy gardens are showing up all over. They’re fun to create and they bring joy to their owners.

Elden Wheaton is nursery manager at Barrett’s Nursery and Landscaping in Adrian, MI. He is a certified landscape designer, educated at Michigan State University.