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Posted By Admin,
Wednesday, June 7, 2023
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By Eric Smith
July 22, 2017
When we talk about conifers for the Southeast, we have to include Cunninghamia lanceolata. This giant of the landscape holds a special place in the realm of southern gardening, as it has historic significance as a “southern heritage” tree. It is commonly found growing around old homesteads and cemeteries throughout the southern United States.
Cunninghamia lanceolata, commonly called China fir, is an evergreen conifer that is native to areas of China, Taiwan, and Vietnam where it can reach heights up to 150 feet (50 m) tall. In cultivation, it commonly grows 35 to 70 feet (10 - 20 m) tall. It tends to sucker and often grows in a multi-trunked form with sharply-pointed, (specific epithet means spear-shaped) finely-toothed foliage. The green to blue-green needles grow up to 2.75 inch (7 cm) long. Foliage may bronze in cold winters. China fir displays oval to globose fruiting cones 1.5 inches (3.75 cm) in diameter that appear in small groups of 1 to 3 at the shoot ends. The brown bark of mature trees exfoliates in strips to reveal reddish-brown inner bark. This is a prized timber tree in China, named after James Cunninghame (died ca. 1709) who was a surgeon for the East India Company in Amoy, China.
Best grown in moist, acidic, well-drained soils in part shade to full sun and hardy in USDA Zones 7 to 9, China fir will experience foliar damage in extreme winters, and its use is questionable north of Washington D.C. Branches killed by winter should be promptly pruned out. Cunninghamia lanceolata ‘Glauca’, an attractive blue form, reportedly has better winter hardiness (to -10°F / -23°C). In warm winter climates, China fir can develop into a beautiful tree. Its sheer size and uniqueness of texture make it a compliment to the landscape if given enough space to flourish.
Jessica Roberts provides a reference point for gauging the size of Brookgreen’s
immense Cunninghamia lanceolata.
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Wednesday, June 7, 2023
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Trials and Tribulations of a Conifer Collection in the South
By Eric Smith
July 25, 2017
By: David Poston, Senior Horticulturist, Moore Farms Botanical Gardens
Situated in USDA Hardiness Zone 8a in the low country of South Carolina, Moore Farms Botanical Garden was established in 2002 on croplands that were once swamps. It's a conifer's nightmare. It's not easy to grow conifers in an area where there's consistent high summer temperatures in the day and night, high humidity, and high water table. Being located in swamplands, the water table is incredibly high. Water will soon fill any hole dug over three feet. To compensate for this, we tend to plant high, amend the soil, and add gravel to the base.
In 2014, I ran across Cunninghamia konishii 'Little Leo' in Architectural Trees' availability. I checked our database to see if we've ever had this in our collection. We purchased one in 2009 and it was marked dead in May of 2010. I was told that it was a weak performer and I wish I had listened. That tree was planted in an area that didn't have irrigation at the time, and, looking back, I thought it may have struggled to get established. Considering how well C. lanceolata 'Glauca' performed in various situations in the garden, I thought I could find a place that it would thrive. I never did.
Die-back of interior growth of Cunninghamia konishii 'Little Leo'
I went ahead and purchased a three gallon tree to place in a more prominent area of the garden with irrigation. All was well until August. The foliage on the inside started to die back. I pruned out the dead with hopes of interior growth and better air circulation. I noticed new buds along the trunk. I found hope in its survival. Then the foliage started to die from the ground to the top. The winter came and finished it off. It didn't make it a full year in the garden.
In the Fall of 2014, I ordered C. lanceolata 'Greer's Dwarf' from Forestfarm Nursery. A dwarf variety said to get only six feet tall, ours has a more prostrate habit. After sitting in the nursery for a year, it was planted in a newly renovated area in January of 2016. It has established well in an area of full sun and no irrigation. It had been receiving supplemental watering throughout the summer. Over the course of two years, there haven't been any issues with any die-back in the interior growth. A "larger" variety of 'Little Leo', this has been a great substitute.
Cunninghamia lanceolata 'Greer's Dwarf' (Photo by Kaitlyn Humphrey)
I was excited when I saw Cryptomeria japonica 'Twinkle Toes' at Iseli Nursery in Boring, Oregon. Here is this dense, dwarf Cryptomeria with beautiful golden foliage that I had to have for our collection. The plant was so dense that a simple tap to the foliage made the whole plant jiggle like Jell-O™. I purchased one and planted it in 2016. I picked a spot that received morning sun and afternoon shade because I was concerned that the golden foliage would burn in full sun. It was doing well, until it rained. I wasn't having an issue with water but with fire ants. They built an impressive mound through and around C. 'Twinkle Toes'. I didn't notice it when it happened and by the time I did, the damage was dramatic. I did my best to knock down the mound. With it being such a dense plant, it was extremely difficult to remove the mound inside of the plant. I treated the ant mound and hoped for the best. The majority of the lower branches, the right side, and some of the tip growth had died. With the majority of the foliage dead, and it being slow growing, I considered it a loss.
Pinus strobus ‘Angel Falls’ in decline.
Recently, I have also been focusing on collecting Pinus strobus. There are large, established specimens located in an outer area of the garden. We lost the majority of them to Hurricane Matthew last year. We've had success and we've had failure. 'Coney Island', 'Fastigata', 'Contorta', and 'Niagara Falls' have performed well, but the needle drop from this past year has left them looking scrawny. 'Blue Shag' has been the best performer. 'Angel Falls' didn't fare so well. Planted in full sun with irrigation, when the heat of summer arrived, it began to shed its interior needles. I began to give it supplemental watering in hopes of getting it through the summer. Later in the season, I noticed that the needles had a pale green appearance. They still clung to the tree, but it looked as if all life was being drawn from them. Not long after, they began to turn brown. I did some research and came to the conclusion that it was white pine decline. With the fear that it might spread, I removed it from the garden immediately.
Even though there have been issues and failures in the garden, there have been many more successes. I look forward to expanding our collections and collecting data. Be sure to check out our plant database through our website. www.moorefarmsbg.org
About the Author: David Poston is Senior Horticulturist and manager of the ACS SE Reference Garden at Moore Farms Botanical Garden. Focusing in public horticulture, he has built his knowledge through hands-on experience. David graduated from Sandhills Community College in Pinehurst, NC with an A.A.S in Landscape Gardening. After internships at Longwood Gardens and Atlanta Botanical Garden (ABG), he was hired full time as the Greenhouse & Conservation Nursery Assistant Horticulturist at ABG. He joined the Moore Farms Botanical Garden team in 2012.
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Wednesday, June 7, 2023
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By Web Editor
September 4, 2020
10 Types of Cedars that Everyone Should Know
Cedrus deodara 'Cream Puff' as part of a mixed border. Photo by Janice LeCocq
Why plant a cedar? The short answer is that they are striking garden selections, with lovely, textural foliage that can be had in shades of blue, white, cream or green. To add to that, they are tough plants when given the right conditions, take well to pruning, are relatively disease and pest-free and with cultivars that can be had in a variety of sizes and forms.
Cedars are complicated, but that's not their fault. Humans have classified plants and animals within family groups, and we give each group and then each plant within it a name to make it clear which plant we mean. Simple, right? Not so with cedars, because somewhere along the way, plant finders and explorers and then the population at large, started calling anything with aromatic bark a cedar. Consequently, we have 'fake' cedars, such as western red-cedar (which is Thuja plicata, (not related to real cedars), Eastern red cedar, (Juniperus virginiana), which not only is not related to real cedars, but is not related to western red-cedar either! This goes on, with Calocedrus and Chamaecyparis using false cedar in their common names. Fortunately, you can forget about all that for now, because we are going to focus on what we have to call TRUE cedars, those of the genus Cedrus, which is a member of Pinaceae, the pine family.
Cedrus needles are arranged in clusters on short shoots, giving the plants a distinctive texture. Photo by Janice LeCocq
True cedars (and remember, that is all that we are discussing here!) hail from the mountains of the western Himalayas of Asia and the Mediterranean region of Europe, where they are often found at high altitudes. Cedars are generally hardy to zone 6, although cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus libani) is a bit more tender. They flourish in well-draining soil and do best in areas that replicate their native conditions. This makes them an excellent choice for West Coast Mediterranean climates but they also do very well in other parts of the US where they are hardy. New Jersey's Grounds for Sculpture, for example, boasts a magnificent weeping blue Atlas cedar.
This isn't even half of this massive specimen at the Grounds for Sculpture in Hamilton, NJ
Thankfully, we can find cedars for our gardens that will either not get that large, or can easily be pruned to keep them the right scale for the other plantings. There are only four species of cedars, but those four yield over 100 cultivars developed for landscape planting. Cedrus cultivars are available with blue, green, yellow or cream foliage. What are the best of these? Here's a list to get you started. We'll begin with blue:
This specimen has been in the ground for about 10 years, with minor pruning to 'lift' it.
'Prostrate Beauty' Himalayan cedar starts us off because it is difficult to imagine a garden that would not be enhanced by its inclusion. It has a low, spreading habit and its color is a vivid, clear blue with light green undertones. This specimen is about 7' wide but it can easily be kept smaller by pruning the tips. It holds its color in colder temperatures, when it really glows in the soft, low light of the winter sun, taking on a slightly turquoise hue. Gardeners always seem to be on the hunt for the elusive blue flower; why not add blue foliage as well?
2. Cedrus atlantica 'Glauca Pendula'
A pair of weeping blue Atlas cedars flanks the front entry of a house in Northern California
As noted earlier, this cultivar can get massive, but it doesn't have to! Cedars, with their soft wood, are easily pruned and respond well to pruning. This pair in the photo above are pruned twice a year, in spring and in fall, with the majority of the pruning designed to keep the hanging branches over the door tipped back and thinned out. Weeping cedars all need to be staked or supported until they reach the desired height, at which point you can remove the support and they will weep from that point. These two were purchased as "serpentines" (which you can see if you look at the left one particularly) in 15-gallon size, and then trained up rebar supports to meet in the middle, arching over the door. They are pruned twice yearly, mostly to keep the weeping branches from descending too far and creating an unwelcome (or barricaded!) entry.
This weeping blue atlas cedar is being trained to be free-form in the landscape
A third treatment is to use a weeping cedar as a 'curtain', here playing off the flat face of the rock. Photo by Janice LeCocq
'Feelin' Blue' Himalayan cedar, part of a dazzling autumnal display of color. Photo by Janice LeCocq
For an even richer blue color, try 'Feelin' Blue', which is lower and slower-growing (this one we class as a 'dwarf') than 'Prostrate Beauty' (an intermediate). Like other blue cedars, it holds its color year-round, with some reporting the deepest color in late summer. If you think that blue livens up a summer bed, look at what it does when paired with autumn's hot tones. The purple beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii 'Profusion', which is hardy to zone 3, adds amethyst jewel tones to the cedar's sapphire needles.
'Devinely Blue' is a classic 'Christmas tree' shape, with blue-green foliage. Photo by Janice LeCocq
For an upright, dwarf form, 'Devinely Blue' (named after a propagator named Bill Devine, so NOT misspelled) is a lovely choice. While not as pure-blue as the other selections, the foliage has a distinct blue cast and the needles are long and graceful. This one never needs pruning if you place it properly. A true dwarf, it is slow growing and a sedate garden denizen. It is the perfect selection for a small garden, where it can serve as a focal point.
There are other blue cedars that are also garden-worthy. Likely the one that is the most dramatic is "Cedrus atlantica 'Sapphire Nymph', worth checking out for the name alone. The reason that it does not make this top 10 list is that it is extremely brittle and breaks easily. A high wind, a carelessly tossed tennis ball for a dog, even bumping into it can cause significant breakage. So investigate it if you can provide a safe place for it, as it is a stunner.
5. Cedrus deodara 'Monkinn' (sold as Feelin' Sunny™)
Feelin' Sunny™ is a gorgeous golden intermediate Himalayan cedar. Photo by Janice LeCocq
A Monrovia Nursery introduction (hence the botanical name of 'Monkinn'; Monrovia tends to include 'Mon' in their introductions, then registering a different name under which the plant is sold), this cedar is liberally sprinkled with sunshiny yellow tips. The foliage exposed to sunlight is yellow; anything shaded remains green, which produces a dramatic and brilliant two-toned effect. This is a relatively new cultivar, whose exact origins are not clear, and there hasn't been much time to observe it in the garden. Some sources say that it is shrubby and low-growing but the specimen above, which was purchased directly from Monrovia, is clearly upright with excurrent (strong apical dominance) form.
A close up of Feelin' Sunny's foliage. Photo by Janice LeCocq
A lovely golden dwarf Himalayan cedar, 'Gold Cascade' will eventually become more conical in form
'Gold Cascade' Himalayan cedar starts off broadly spreading but will grow more conical with age (see the photo at the link above). The rich, yellow color is reminiscent of 'Aurea', a large, fast-growing Himalayan cedar cultivar. The specimen in the photo above has been pruned to keep it smaller and flatter than it naturally wishes to be. Note the dramatic effect of the yellow and blue ('Picea pungens 'Lucretia') foliage combination.
Cedrus deodara 'Aurea' is a gorgeous tree but it gets big fairly quickly
Almost good enough to eat, 'Cream Puff' is creamier than it is yellow. Photo by Janice LeCocq
This is one of the best light-colored cedars for livening up the winter landscape, when its creamy foliage brightens even the dullest of days. While, if left to its own devices, it will eventually become broadly conical or upright, it can easily be pruned to keep it more shrub-shaped, as is the case with the specimen above. It has luxurious foliage tipped with creamy light green and can be used as a specimen planting or as part of a mixed shrub border.
Cedrus deodara 'Snow Sprite' has white-tipped branches
'Snow Sprite' Himalayan cedar is similar to some of the yellow-needled cultivars, however it has distinctly white-tipped branches, rather than yellow, especially with the flush of new growth in spring (note: in some climates cedars push new growth twice a year, which means that they stay fresh-looking in late summer). 'Snow Sprite' is classed as a dwarf, and grows at a sedate rate, and, like all cedars, can be pruned easily to slow it down or keep it in a mounded shape. The photo above shows 'Snow Sprite' on the left and 'Aurea' on the right, making it easy to compare color and habit.
There are rich green Cedrus cultivars, such as C. deodara 'Hollandia'. Photo by Janice LeCocq
Lest you think that cedars are only available in blues, yellows or white, we'll move now to rich green selections. One of the best is 'Hollandia', a deep, saturated green upright dwarf Himalayan cedar cultivar. There is nothing dusty or reserved about this hue, and good, deep greens are not always easy to find. We have to remember in our quest for dramatic colors not to neglect green! This particular specimen has been pruned infrequently to keep it at its current height and to keep it a bit narrower than it would naturally be.
A true miniature, 'Kenwith' Cypriot cedar can find a home in any garden
'Kenwith' is the one of the only known cultivars of Cypriot cedars (Cedrus brevifolia). As its name suggests, Cypriot cedar is known for its short, bristly needles that give the plant a scrubbier effect than the longer needles of the other Cedrus genera. 'Kenwith' is extremely slow-growing and works well in a container, a rock garden or in a mixed border. Its congested habit is also a distinctive feature.
There are many, many other wonderful Cedrus cultivars, in fact, almost all of them are garden-worthy plants that even inexperienced gardeners can grow successfully in the right climate. An added bonus is that cedars have decorative pollen cones as well as very large, bold seed cones.
Pollen cones on Cedrus deodara 'Aurea'
Seed cone on Cedrus libani 'Blue Angel'
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Posted By administration,
Wednesday, June 7, 2023
Updated: Wednesday, June 7, 2023
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By Web Editor April 1, 2020 We’re very sorry to share the news that Derek Spicer passed away on March 30, 2020. According to his
wife, Carole, there were complications following his operation last week and it was clear that the recovery was not going as planned. A CT scan revealed a serious infection around the operation site, and he sadly passed away on Monday evening.
Carole says "At this time, we’d just like to give our thanks to all of the staff at Leicester Royal Infirmary for everything they did for him under these incredibly difficult circumstances.”
Those of us in the ACS who knew him will
miss his knowledge, humor and all that he contributed to the field of conifers. All of our sympathies to Derek's family. He will be sorely missed.
Here is a message from Rod White, Vice Chairman of the British Conifer Society:
I am sure you will all join with me in sending our sincerest sympathies to Carole and their family.
Derek’s passion for conifers is well known to you all and his time, love and effort has been given so freely over many years for the benefit
of us all. His legacy to the conifer world is undeniable and will be felt for many years to come. We are so very fortunate to have benefited from his wisdom and guidance, he will be sorely missed.
We are further so very fortunate that in his journey through life exploring his passion for conifers, that he was acutely aware of the need to pass on his knowledge and repay the generosity he had received from so many individuals over so many years.
This was the driving force behind his determination to produce along with his co-author Aris Auders the magnificent two volume Encyclopedia of Conifers. As I am sure some of you are well aware, this is a wonderful reference book and one that is unlikely
to be superseded for many years to come. We are so very fortunate that he consciously and most generously chose to share his passion and knowledge for the benefit of us all.
I hope you will continue to enjoy and develop your interest in conifers and hopefully be inspired to emulate in your own way the remarkable contribution Derek has made to spreading the knowledge, joy and passion that he displayed during the course
of his life for our chosen group of plants.
Whilst writing, I would be extremely grateful for those of you who have treasured memories of Derek if you would consider writing a short personal note of any happy or amusing anecdotes that may bring a smile to your face when remembering this wonderful
man.
These can be sent to the secretary and may hopefully add in some way to a tribute to Derek to be included in the journal at some future date.
I very much look forward to your support.
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By Web Editor
January 28, 2021
10 Types of Junipers that Everyone Should Know
Blue Star juniper dazzles with its brilliant color, especially in winter. Photo by Janice LeCocq
Junipers tend to be the Rodney Dangerfield of the garden: they get no respect. They are often over-planted and under-cared for in commercial settings, and at best get dismissed as 'boring'. We see too many poor examples to believe that junipers can be an asset to the garden, indeed, at times even work as specimen plantings. There are almost 60 species of junipers and about 400 cultivars. The cultivars are the plants that will give you the most bang for your garden buck, as they have been selected for smaller size, slower growth rate, and, many times, dramatic foliage. Junipers are members of the Cypress family and are native to Europe, Asia, Africa and North America. Their 'berries', which are actually seed cones with very fleshy, tight scales, were the original flavoring for gin. Note: unless otherwise specified, junipers tend to perform best in Zones 4-8 with reports of good performance in higher zones if the summers are not too humid.
This bun-shaped juniper pictured above is hardly boring! While all junipers are reasonably drought-tolerant, J. squamata is happiest with a bit more water than most. As the late Derek Spicer pointed out, this one does well in England, where moist air and frequent rainfall is the norm. Its blue color is especially vibrant in colder weather, and it certainly lights up what can sometimes be a drab winter landscape.
2. Juniperus horizontalis 'Blue Chip' (Blue Chip creeping juniper)
Juniperus horizontalis 'Blue Chip' in winter. Photo by Janice LeCocq
Blue Chip creeping juniper is a tough ground-cover with a softer blue tone than Blue Star. When young it resembles a starfish, and with somewhat diligent pruning it can be kept this way. Better to plant it where it has room to roam, and it will fill in and make a lovely, low-water grass substitute. Like many other junipers, its colors changes seasonally (see, we told you that they weren't boring!) so that it is a deeper blue in colder temperatures and greens up a bit in summer. Here is a shot of the same group in warm weather:
Juniperus horizontalis 'Blue Chip' in summer. Photo by Janice LeCocq
3. Juniperus squamata 'Floreant'
For something completely different, try 'Floreant', which is a globe-shaped selection
Another J. squamata worthy of specimen status is 'Floreant', which has tweedy, two-toned foliage in a nice, tidy bun shape. Like 'Blue Star', it appreciates a little more water than other junipers. This one can be used to good effect 'bridging' dark and light foliage in surrounding plantings. Use it where its foliage can be admired up close. Makes a good container choice.
Juniperus horizontalis 'Lime Glow' really does glow!
Juniperus horizontalis 'Lime Glow' has a slightly more shrub-like presence than those mentioned previously, but it is nonetheless low and somewhat spreading. It works very well in massed plantings or as repeated throughout the garden as a leitmotif. The limey-yellow is a bright spot in spring and summer gardens, contrasting beautifully with green and blue foliage. It is especially effective when used below or around the base of large trees or shrubs of deep green. This selection is known for its dramatic color change with cold weather, when it takes on hues of lavender and toffee. Note: when conifers turn color in winter like this, it is only the needles on the tops of the branches that turn. Underneath they remain brilliant green.
The same group of plants in wintertime. Photo by Janice LeCocq
5. Juniperus x pfitzeriana 'Daub's Frosted'
Daub's Frosted juniper is a lovely addition to almost any garden. Photo by Janice LeCocq
This lovely selection is a cultivar of a hybrid of Juniperus sabiana and Juniperus chinensis. These species hybridize naturally in the wild and have also resulted in synthetic hybrids. While its full, botanical name is a mouthful, mercifully all that you have to remember is 'Daub's Frosted'! This cultivar, if left to itself, will stay fairly low and spreading, with its two-toned foliage on display year-round, although most dramatic in springtime with new growth. It is also attractive when staked as a young plant and allowed to flow from about 2-3'. It can also be pruned to showcase its cinnamon, twisty bark. This is one of the most attractive border plants out there, will even give flowering perennials serious competition!
This Daub's Frosted was staked to about three feet and then allowed to spread
Note the cinnamon-colored bark, which contrasts nicely with the bright foliage
That soft blue rug on the left is Blue Pacific juniper. Photo by Janice LeCocq
Another blue carpet juniper is Blue Pacific, which, as a cultivar of Juniperus conferta is a slightly more tender selection than those noted thus far, performing best in zones 6-9. While drought-tolerant once established, it does better with somewhat regular water for the first few years and also appreciates well-draining soil. This selection has softer needles than those already discussed and has a slightly different sprawling form. It also holds its regular color a soft aqua with hints of silver, all winter long, and cones more prolifically than the other ground cover junipers. So many to choose from!
Close up of foliage of Gold Cone common juniper. Photo by Janice LeCocq
Now we're moving away from ground-hugging cultivars to an upright form called Gold Cone. This tidy shrub has a narrow shape, making it perfect for use as a single accent piece (think exclamation point) or in groups. The gold-tipped foliage is attractive both in color and texture. Tipping the terminal bud keeps it slightly shorter and squatter. Like most junipers, it tolerates full sun and tough conditions. One of the cold-hardiest junipers, this one will withstand the wintertime temps of zone 3, yet also performs very well in warmer, dry summer climates.
A young Dream Joy scaly juniper. Photo by Ovocná Školka S.r.o.
This cultivar looks relatively sedate for much of the year, but when the new growth flushes in spring you will see what the fuss is about. Each branch produces creamy white new foliage that makes for a lovely and eye-catching display. This is a dwarf but is not a ground-hugging selection. Over time it will make a small shrub about 2 1/2 feet by four feet. Can be easily pruned to create a more angular shape. Works well interplanted with both other conifers and plants such as roses and large succulents.
Oblonga Pendula common juniper is anything but common-looking
Now we're in the realm of the really unusual junipers, with 'Oblonga Pendula' providing not just color and texture to the garden, but superb, interesting form as well. The rich, green needles are a bit prickly but appear soft and pet-able. It cones regularly and prolifically, adding even more interest to an already striking presence. While it can certainly be pruned, this specimen, about 15 years old, has never been altered in any way. One of the best focal point junipers, but difficult to find in the trade.
Not all junipers are created equal! Canary Islands juniper is a big tree.
Native to the Canary Islands, and hence a subtropical selection, Juniperus cedrus does best in Mediterranean climates in zones 9 and 10. It is a large, upright tree whose upward facing branches drip with long, graceful branchlets. The needles are grayish green with a double white stomatal band which gives the foliage a tweedy appearance. The bark is brown and peeling and the combination of its shape, color and habit make it an extremely attractive tree. While it will not grow in most of the U.S. keep an eye out for it if you are in West Coast botanical gardens or arboreta. Should you visit the Canary Islands, note that there are various forms of this species, depending on which island it grows. Some are more weeping, some greener or bluer. It is threatened in the wild.
This close up of the foliage looks like Harris tweed!
There are hundreds more junipers out there, almost all of them tough, garden workhorses and many of them attractive, eye catching additions to the mixed bed or border. Try the trailing forms over a low rock wall, or along a driveway, the shrubbier shapes in a mixed bed, and if you are lucky enough to score an 'Oblonga Pendula', give it a spot all to itself! There. Do you respect junipers now? We thought that you might!
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Temperate Conifers of South America
By Tom Cox
November 8, 2019
Learn about the myriad Andean conifers of Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay.
A longtime dream of mine has been to document and photograph in-situ populations of the temperate conifers of South America. These are only found in Chile and Argentina. Very little is ever written about them and, to my knowledge, they have never been discussed in Conifer Quarterly (CQ).
For sake of clarity, it is important to distinguish these temperate (Andean) conifers from those tropical and sub tropical conifers, occurring further north in locations such as southern Brazil, Paraguay and northern Argentina, e.g. Araucaria angustifolia and Podocarpus lambertii. An easy assumption which I made early-on is that any conifer growing south of the U.S. border would not ever be winter hardy in my Zone 7b climate.
While over the years a number of these Andean conifers have made their way to our arboretum, growing them has proven at best to be quite challenging. As I was to learn on this trip, the conditions, in which they naturally occur, is difficult to replicate in the Piedmont region of Georgia.
Andean Conifers in South America
As one who has a fascination with conifer evolution, it was interesting to learn more about these Andean species. With the exception of Araucaria araucana (Monkey Puzzle tree), they are seldom seen in collections, even in the countries to which they are native. While none are particularly garden-worthy, their place in the conifer kingdom is interesting.
As a starting point, there are only nine species in the region and they belong to three families:
Podocarpaceae: containing Lepidothamnus fonkii, Podocarpus nubigenus, Podocarpus salignus, Prumnopitys andina, and Saxegothaea conspicua.
Araucariaceae: containing Araucaria araucana
Cupressaceae: containing Austrocedrus chilensis, Fitzroya cupressoides, and Pilgerodendron uviferum.
I dare say that none of these conifers are exactly household words. During our travels, we documented all but the following; Prumnopitys andina, Podocarpus salignus, and Lepidothamnus fonkii.
The conifer, alerce (Fitzroya cupressoides) in Puerto Montt, Chile
The Conifer Adventure Begins
Our journey began in Santiago, Chile, where we met up with ACS members Ken and Elena Jordan (Roseburg, Oregon). After several days in Santiago, it was off to the port city of Valparaiso, where we boarded a Golden Princess cruise which was to be our home for the next 14 days. I was not certain as to how I might acclimate to being on a ship for that long as I’m used to being out making my own way. As we get older, and I am less able to trek all over the globe, this presented an alternative which worked.
Our first stop was in Puerto Montt, Chile, and Alerce Andino National Park, where a remaining stand of Fitzroya (native common name is Alerce) were protected. While some specimens in the region are dated as 4,000 years old, my guess is that, what we saw were secondary forest. Nonetheless, many of these trees were at least 75’ (23 m) tall with virtually no limbs for the first 40’ (12 m).
Another characteristic is their slow growth—less than 1” (2.5 cm) per year. Fitzroya is considered one of the largest trees in South America and now receives national protection. It was formerly used for the building of houses, shingles, and boats, and even used in aircraft. One small cathedral in Puerto Montt is constructed entirely from Fitzroya and casts the same red hue as our native redwood.
Exploring Chile
Fitzroya derives its name from Vice-Admiral Robert FitzRoy, the captain of HMS Beagle during Charles Darwin’s famous voyage. An associated conifer common in the forest was Podocarpus nubigenus (more on this species later). On the touristy side, the city of Puerto Montt is a small port founded by German settlers over 150 years ago. There is a pleasant main square, the aforementioned cathedral, and the authentic Angelmo market, famous for fresh seafood and souvenirs. We enjoyed a very nice seafood meal with wine in a little “hole-in-the-wall” cafe overlooking the port. Alas, these are sometimes the best meals.
Sailing southward along the coast of Chile, we stopped in Punta Arenas; a formerly bustling city prior to the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. There is some interesting architecture and fine homes which are emblematic of another era. Situated near the Straits of Magellan, it was interesting to see how people lived this far south and so remote.
We then sailed around legendary Cape Horn at the southernmost tip of South America. This often violent stretch of water between Antarctica and South America can sometimes be the roughest sea in the world. Luckily, it was relatively calm as we sailed past. We then traversed through the Drake Passage and on to Ushuaia, Argentina, which is considered the southernmost city in the world.
Cultivated conifers, Italian cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) at San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina
Arriving at Argentina
Our next stop was Port Stanley, Falkland Islands. Officially classified as a British overseas territory, there has been some controversy concerning ownership between Great Britain and Argentina, which resulted in a two month undeclared war in 1982. The occupants are considered British citizens, and the city has a distinct British feel.
Having previously travelled to Ascension Island in the equatorial south Atlantic (another British overseas territory), it was interesting to see how they lived on this also remote outpost. It was fascinating on this largely treeless island to see a number of conifers such as Picea orientalis ‘Skylands’ and Cupressus macrocarpa planted on the grounds of the governor’s mansion—all performing quite well.
It was then on to Montevideo, Uruguay, which is an interesting old city in this small country wedged between Brazil and Argentina. A short ride from the port found us four coneheads at the botanical garden. Regrettably, our cab returned exactly at the time we requested, but much too soon to enjoy fully this garden which has a very good plant collection with numerous old conifers. One of special note was a 30’ (9 m) Cupressus torulosa, a rare find in any collection.
Finding Fair Winds
Our last stop was Buenos Aires. After a couple of days there, we said goodbye to Ken and Elena, who headed back home to Oregon. This is a city which most people claim to either love or hate. We loved it. Every street is tree lined, with Jacaranda being the principle landscape tree. What a sight it must be in the spring when these trees are covered with blue trumpet shaped flowers.
We found the city to be clean, with beautiful European architecture, wide boulevards, great food and wine, and friendly people. If visiting, a must stop is in the Recoleta cemetery which contains the graves of Argentina’s famous, including Eva Peron. The botanical garden is a gem and contains a large area dedicated to conifers from around the world, most of which are straight species. The garden contains numerous statues, winding paths and inviting benches where one can sit and relax for a while. Another highlight is a greenhouse imported from France in 1900. In summary, it makes for a nice escape from the hustle and bustle, and admission is also free.
It was now time to lay the sissy stuff aside and kick the hunt for endemic conifers into high gear. We flew to Bariloche in the lake district of Argentina and rented a car. Bariloche is an idyllic little town reminiscent of a European ski resort. It is also a town where conifers are king; and lays claim to being the chocolate capital of Argentina, a good combination as both are sweet.
Araucaria araucana, Pseudotsuga menziesii, Cupressus lusitanica, C. macrocarpa, Pinus radiata, and P. pinasterare everywhere. We spent our first two nights in a room overlooking scenic Lake Nahuel Huapi, which sits at 2,500’ (765m) elevation. Our view was framed by two perfectly formed Araucaria araucana. A postcard setting for sure.
Southern beech (Nothofagus sp.) in Puerto Blest, Argentina
Stumbling into a Valdivian Rain Forest
One day, we drove along the shore of this deep blue lake with its backdrop of rugged peaks of the Andes to Puerto Panuelo, where we caught a boat to Puerto Blest in an effort to search for native conifers. As a side note, this port is also where one would find the legendary Llao Llao hotel and resort—the most famous hotel in Argentina. After an approximate one hour boat ride, we docked and began our trek.
This was the only physically challenging portion of the trip as we had to climb 700 steps alongside a spectacular waterfall. Fortunately the steps were broken up by landings where one can take a rest. Along the way, we saw more specimens of the rare Fitzroya. We would also document specimens of Saxagothea conspicua, Pilgerodendron uviferum, and Podocarpus nubigenus, as well as a wide variety of mosses, mushrooms, and lichens.
We were in the middle of a Valdivian Temperate Rain Forest; one of the world’s five major temperate rainforests and the only one in all of South America. The annual precipitation here is around 197” (5000 mm). Snow-capped volcanoes and Andean peaks are the backdrop of these temperate rainforests. We also saw numerous Southern beech (Nothofagus sp.) forests, one of only three of this type of forest in the world.
Seeing the Argentine Araucaria
Before leaving Bariloche, we took another boat to the island of Victoria. It had been recommended by a local horticulturist as a place to see conifers. If one travels to Puerto Blest, then there is no reason to travel here except to see exotic trees. It has plants and trees from all over the world which began as seedlings. Of particular note is a long Sequoiadendron giganteum allee with trees approaching 100’ (30 m), as well as large specimens of Pinus ponderosa, taeda, and radiata, and several species of Cupressus. The island was privately owned in the past.
The highlight of the entire journey was soon to unfold. After spending several nights in the charming mountain town of San Martin de los Andes, which is nestled between high peaks next to Lake Lacar, we were off to Lanin Volcano. The principle reason was not to see the snowcapped volcano, but rather to visit a natural forest of Araucaria araucana. This has long been high on my bucket list, particularly after seeing a small grove of planted trees at Bedgebury Pinetum. After driving for what seemed forever on a dirt road which looked as if it had been bombed, we began to see the cone shaped, snow-capped Lanin Volcano.
We were lucky as it danced in and out of clouds making it possible to catch full views. Soon we would find ourselves in the middle of the Araucaria. There were all sizes and various forms, although we saw little evidence of seedlings. At the risk of sounding hyperbolic, this was one of the greatest experiences of all times. There were few vehicles to spoil the moment and the weather was cooperating.
Behind us were large mountains where Austrocedrus chilensis and Nothofagus spp. blanketed the slopes. Facing us was the volcano and in this alpine valley were the legendary Araucaria. It was easy to see the transitional aspects of the area where Austrocedrus grew on the rocky slopes and Araucaria in the lowland on pure volcanic scree. The contrast between conifers of the rainforest and those in drier areas was stark. It offered insight in to how I might attempt to grow these in north Georgia. They are all very site specific.
The coniferous monkey puzzle tree (Araucaria araucana) at Lanin National Park, Argentina
A South American Summary
For many of our readers, there will likely be no interest in trying to grow these conifers. Aside from availability, as mentioned earlier, they are quite site-specific with varying moisture demands. With the exception of Araucaria, they are even rare in botanical gardens and were not even seen in Buenos Aires or Montevideo. Thus, they will likely remain in the domain of the collector and in highly specialized collections.
From a botanical and historical standpoint, they are an important group. It is believed that the southern conifers were much more diverse before the glaciations. Four of the nine conifers are represented by a single species. These are survivors from a much earlier period. As previously discussed, conifers such as Fitzroya cupressoides can live for thousands of years. Like Sequoiadendron giganteum and Pinus longaeva, the Andean conifers offer a glimpse back into the climate history of our planet.
Further, the lineage of conifers from the southern hemisphere show a significantly older distribution than their counterparts in the northern hemisphere and are thought to be an older group. One reason cited is that the scattered persistence of mild, wetter habitats in the southern hemisphere may have favored the survival of older lineages.
Once a part of a larger supercontinent (Gondwana) which included Australia and New Zealand, there are numerous disjunctive genera common between the countries. This is similar to the floristic similarities between the southeastern U.S. and portions of China. Unlike the phenomenon where one waits until they get home to look at their pictures to see if they had a good time, this was a trip guaranteed to please many lovers of conifers and those who also appreciate beautiful scenery, coupled with good food. And, the excellent wine will be a bonus for some.
Conifers du Jour
Saxagothea conspicua (Prince Albert’s Yew): This monotypic genus was a rather commonly occurring conifer in this area. It resembles a yew (Taxus) in appearance with .6–1.2” (1.5–3 cm) long lanceolate leaves, which are fairly hard with a prickly spine tip (like the genus Torreya). The dark purple-brown bark is thin and flaky to scaly, which I found attractive. While they can reportedly attain heights of 82’ (25 m), we saw none taller than approximately 10’ (3 m). At least one nursery in the U.S. (Far Reaches Farm in Port Townsend, Washington) carries this species.
Pilgerodendron uviferum: While mostly seen around bogs and swamps, we found it on wet mountain slopes within the rainforest where it grew next to Nothofagus betuloides, Saxagothea, and Fitzroya. While it can reportedly attain heights of 65’ (20 m), we saw nothing approaching this. The specimens we did see displayed an appealing dark brown bark which exfoliated in long strips. Close examination of the densely crowded scale-like needles reminded me somewhat of a succulent.
One prominent feature was that all needles appeared to be of the exact same length. Several trees observed were perfectly conical and rather handsome, which makes me want to try this species in our arboretum. I recall seeing this species during my unforgettable stay at Bedgebury Pinetum in the U.K., but do not recall it being that remarkable. This is analogous to the boy or girl we pay no attention to in high school and then one day we see them as a star on TV. Due to overexploitation as a building material, Pilgerodendron is now protected under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora).
Podocarpus nubigenus: As a genus, Podocarpus are to the southern hemisphere what pines are to the northern hemisphere—that is to say, the most number of species. P. nubigenus is the southernmost Podocarpus species in the world and is one of two occurring in the region covered in this article. The other, P. salignus was not found. P. nubigenus is another conifer growing to around 65’–80’ (20–25 m). The specimens we observed were no taller than 15’ (5 m). As observed, this is a tree also reminiscent of the genus Taxus, but most like Podocarpus totara from New Zealand. It is of interest to me how the Antarctic flora from this region bears strong resemblance to that of portions of New Zealand. This is an irregularly shaped tree I suspect has no garden merit outside special collections and for conservation.
The conifer, Chilean cedar (Austrocedrus chilensis) at Lanin National Park, Argentina
Araucaria araucana: One of only two species of Araucaria native to South America. The other being A. angustifolia from Brazil. Araucaria only occur naturally in the southern hemisphere. This is not an uncommon tree in parks and arboreta and is frequently seen in Portland, Oregon, and the U.K. Attesting to its cold tolerance, I have even seen a tree growing on Long Island, New York. Here in the southeast, the tree is not long lived due to being highly susceptible to the soil born fungus, Phytophthora. Some success has been achieved by using A. angustifolia as an understock. Due to its Jurassic like reptilian branches, it has been referred to as a “queer tree." Perhaps one day we may have this tree living in our collection.
Austrocedrus chilensis: Grown properly, this member of the cypress family can be a nice addition to a collection of rare conifers. The scale-like leaves are a blue-green color and have a prominent white stomatal stripe along the outer edge. The bark is shaggy brown. From personal experience in having killed several and from observation, the tree wants to be planted on the dry side and excellent drainage is a must. What surprised me was the extensive root system it puts out. No doubt this allows it to anchor well on slopes. Along with Araucaria and Pilgerodendron, this species offers the best garden-worthy attributes.
Author's Acknowledgement
I wish to acknowledge the invaluable assistance we received from Jeff and Patty Bisbee (Gardnerville, Nevada), who suggested many of the locations we visited to find these conifers, as well as Jeff’s technical assistance with this article. Numerous photographs taken by Jeff of conifers in the region as well as Mexico appear in the recently published two volume book, Conifers Around The World.
References:
Farjon, A. 2010. A Handbook of the World’s Conifers. Leiden, The Netherlands, Brill
Debreczy, Zsolt, and Rácz, István. 2011. Conifers Around The World. Budapest, Hungary, Dendropress
Photographs by Tom Cox.
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Tuesday, June 6, 2023
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How to Avoid Cedar Apple Rust and White Pine Blister Rust in Conifers
By Mary Donaldson
February 6, 2020
Learn how to avoid or control rust fungal diseases of cedars and pines.
Young galls on the cedar bear circular depressions (A). The next spring, the galls absorb moisture and the orange telial horns enlarge (B-D). Photo: Oklahoma State University
When I originally branched out to learn about gardening, I was intrigued by the idea of companion planting. My first foray was to plant marigolds among the tomato plants. I appreciated the symbiosis and interdependence of nature, recalling the beneficial relationship between barnacles and whales. What I was not prepared for was my discovery of plants which are inhospitable to other plants. Becoming a coniferphile, my interest was in protecting my personal collection. Two ‘incompatible’ plants to conifers are explored in this article.
Cedar Apple Rust Disease in Conifers
Cedar Apple Rust is caused by the fungus Gymnosporangium. Although it is detrimental to the economic industry of apple trees, as it causes unsalable fruit to eventual death of the tree, it gets more attention in reference to apples than to conifers, due to the financial impact to the industry.
Even though the common name of this disease refers to cedar, most likely referring to eastern red cedar, which is not a cedar at all in taxonomy, but rather is Juniperus virginiana. It does affect several Juniperus spp., such as eastern red cedar, southern red cedar, Rocky Mountain juniper, red-berry and Utah junipers, and some Chinese and prostrate junipers, making them look shabby and unsightly until the tree declines into ultimate death.
Typical cedar-apple rust lesions on upper surface of apple leaf. Photo: Oklahoma State University
Cedar Apple Rust Disease Cycle
Migration of Gymnosporangium from apple (Malus) to cedar (Juniperus) occurs during the summer in the form of aeciospores, a chain like formation of the fungus spores, overwintering until spring to morphosis into galls which eventually produce teliospores, a two-celled spore which germinates, producing basidiospores, the reproductive form of the fungus spores.
In the second crossover phase, the basidiospores migrate to apple trees, causing fruit lesions and rust leaf spot in the form of aeciospores, which, going back to the beginning of the cycle, re-infect the cedar. In Malus, yellow hued lesions bordered by a red band infect the leaves, decreasing the amount of photosynthesis the tree is able to do. In Juniperus, the galls destroy branches from its insertion point to branch tip, disfiguring the tree until the infestation continues to destroy all the growing tips, and the tree dies.
A complete life cycle of Gymnosporangium takes two years. The fungal damage can be noticed sooner in apples than in junipers due to the many different stages of the disease, which cause the infection to go undetected. Physical eradication of either host plant has shown to be effective, but that requires as little as a quarter of a mile to several miles of clean area. The further geographically south, the more distance needed for removal of host plants.
Cedar branch with quince rust cankers. Photo: Oklahoma State University
How to Control Cedar Apple Rust Disease
Control of Cedar Apple Rust can be done by pruning galls on junipers during the winter months, but this must be accomplished before the telial horns have been produced. In the situation of several juniper trees in the area being infected, pruning does little good.
Fungicides have proven to protect apple trees along with control on cedars. Spray schedules are different for apples and for cedars. Special attention should be given to selecting a fungicide which is effective on apples and then on cedars. This may require use of more than one product. The extension office for your state will have more detailed information on which fungicides to apply for integrated pest management (IPM) practices which are specific for your area.
For those who have low risk tolerance, Diseases of Trees and Shrubs lists Cedar Apple Rust resistant junipers as:
Juniperus chinensis ‘Ames’, ‘Blue Point’, ‘Hetzii Columnaris’, ‘Iowa’, ‘Keteleeri’, ‘Maney’, 'Mountbatten’, ‘Perfecta’, ‘Robusta Green’, ‘Spartan’, ‘Wintergreen’
Juniperus ‘Grey Owl’
Juniperus scopulorum ‘Medora’, ‘Moonglow’
Juniperus virginiana ‘Blue Mountian’, ‘Grey Owl’, ‘Hillspire’
(Sinclair 262)
The sage advice is to plant disease resistant plants. For many conifer collectors, this will only be considered a challenge of man versus Mother Nature.
References:
Sinclair, Wayne A., and Howard H. Lyon. Diseases of Trees and Shrubs. 2nd ed. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 2005. Print.
“Cedar Apple Rust.” Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service. Oklahoma State University, n.d. Web. 21 Sep. 2011. [Read more here.]
“Cedar Apple Rust – Focus on Plant Problems.” University of Illinois Extension, n.d. Web. 21 Sep. 2011. [Read more here.]
White Pine Blister Rust Disease in Conifers
The underside of a leaf from shows infection from the fungus that causes White Pine Blister Rust. Photo: Isabel Munck
White Pine Blister Rust is caused by the fungus, Cronartium ribicola, to which the five-needle and stone pines are highly susceptible. Diseases of Trees and Shrubs lists the following as being most commonly affected as:
Pinus albicaulis (white bark pine)
Pinus aristata (Rocky Mountain bristlecone pine)
Pinus balfouriana (foxtail pine)
Pinus flexilis (limber pine)
Pinus lambertiana (sugar pine)
Pinus monticola (western white pine)
Pinus strobiformis (southwestern white pine)
Pinus strobus (eastern white pine)
It is not a disease which can be passed from pine to pine, but it needs a host plant of Ribes to complete the devastating life cycle of White Pine Blister Rust. More common names of the Ribes species are gooseberry and currant.
White Pine Blister Rust Disease Cycle
The resulting infection of White Pine Blister Rust requires the migration of the Cronartium ribicola in the form of aeciospores, a chain like formation of the fungus spores, from a canker on white pine to Ribes and then back to white pine in the form of basidiospores, the reproductive form of the fungus spores.
A germination stage on Ribes is crucial for the Cronartium ribicola to become damaging to Pinus. Therefore, without the alternate host plant, it is unable to complete its life cycle. This is not to say “down with Ribes” any more than “down with Pinus”, but it is more the idea of leaving two teenagers alone for the weekend to feed off of each other’s bad ideas and cause trouble.
Cool and moist conditions in the late summer and early fall seasons facilitate the transfer of basidiospores from the Ribes to Pinus. The further geographically north a combination of Pinus and Ribes are planted together, the more likely the outbreaks. The cycle can be broken, since Cronartium ribicola does not overwinter on Ribes.
White Pine Blister Rust disease cycle. Photo: forestpathology.org
Major Ribes eradication happened throughout the US during the 20th century along with federal bans on growing certain currant cultivars. The federal ban was lifted in the 1960’s although several states continue the ban on all or some Ribes species. For those who desire to plant Ribes, simple internet searches, or contacting your state’s Cooperative Extension office, will provide further legal information on possession to propagation of this once popular fruiting shrub.
In most cases when symptoms are noticed, it is too late. With Pinus, only after the cambium layers of a branch have been destroyed, might the branches show signs of chlorosis, stunted growth, or death because the transportation of water and nutrients have been hindered or eliminated. Resin may be noticed oozing from diamond shaped cankers of greenish yellow to orange colors.
On Ribes, orange urediniospores, the pustule form of the fungus, builds up on the undersides of the leaves until late summer and early fall. They give rise to telia, which look like orange-brown hairs. Pines infected with White Pine Blister Rust can have the affected area pruned out, but, in most cases, branches are infected too close to the main leader, or the trunk itself is infected.
The various forms of the White Pine Blister Rust fungus. Photo: USDA Forest Service Northeastern Area
Control of White Pine Blister Rust Disease
There is no chemical application to control the spread of Cronartium ribicola. Since there is more value placed on pine forests in the U.S. and Canada, the impact of a widespread outbreak would be far-reaching from the environment it provides for wildlife and other plant species to the topographical erosion and adverse effects on forest watersheds. It is more practical to control the use of Ribes, which is a non-native species to North America.
Further study of White Pine Blister Rust, Cronartium ribicola, and the various forms it takes, rivaling Lady Gaga for costume changes during a concert, can be found in the cited literature used to compile this article. Excellent pictures of Cronartium ribicola in various stages can also be found on the internet.
References:
Sinclair, Wayne A. and Howard H. Lyon. Diseases of Trees and Shrubs. 2nd ed. Cornell University Press, 2005. Print.
“How to Identify White Pine Blister Rust and Remove Cankers.” USDA Forest Service Northeastern Area. Web. 21 Sep. 2011. [Read more here.]
“White Pine Blister Rust and its Threat to High Elevation White Pines.” USDA Forest Service Northeastern Area. Web. 21 Sep. 2011.
“White Pine Blister Rust.” Forest Pathology. Web. 21 Sep. 2011. [Read more here.]
Click here to read more on how to prevent fungal diseases in conifers, and here to read more about other fungal diseases like oak wilt.
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Tuesday, June 6, 2023
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How to Prune Conifer and Evergreen Trees
By Mary Donaldson
April 5, 2020
Discover beginner-friendly pruning tips for your conifers and evergreens.
Dr. Bert Cregg demonstrating how to make a cut during pruning
Do you ever wonder who was allowed and why they were allowed to prune a tree or shrub? Then do you wonder if that same person would be allowed to cut someone’s hair?
Just as one learns to cut hair well, it takes instruction and lots of practice to maintain a tidy look and style to landscape trees and shrubs. Pruning conifers requires a bit more awareness, as they can be less forgiving when done incorrectly.
Before approaching a landscape tree or shrub with something sharp in hand, it is important fi rst to be truthful about one’s knowledge and skills. The fear of doing something wrong is a good caution, but should not be a reason to do nothing.
Before and after pruning
Pruning Conifers with Purpose in Mind
“That is how things get way out of shape and out of bounds,” said Wayne Strayer, from Hidden Lake Gardens, located in Tipton, Michigan. He has spent the last three years of his 35 years in the green-industry, working on the Harper Collection of Dwarf and Rare Conifers. “Most people don’t prune because of fear.”
Pruning the plant when it has broken branches, disease, reversions or has become too big, are the most common reasons. In all circumstances, prune with a purpose in mind. With specimens, there is one main reason for pruning which can also be utilized with any planting in the home landscape.
“Maintain the shape of the plant,” said Jim Chamberlain, who has spent the last five seasons working in the Harper Collection at HLG. “I felt like I had been asked to watch over a celebrity,” Chamberlain said, recalling back to when he was given the responsibility of working in the Harper.
Pruning for a conifer's health
Pruning Like Nobody Knows We Were There
Initially, he was intimidated, but asked a lot of questions before doing anything. It took time to build his confidence up to where, Chamberlin very modestly explained, he can provide input on Harper maintenance.
His goal is to prune so that “nobody knows we were there.” This author’s personal primer has been Adrian Bloom’s book, Gardening With Conifers, which devotes a section to pruning and shaping conifers. Other books on pruning are available for purchase or checking out at a local library.
Caution is advised that some of these books may not be as detailed for someone who is trying to DIY, or may find the material is geared more toward professionals.
How to snip branch tips back lightly on a conifer
Pruning 101 with Horticulture Experts
For those who are inclined to learn visually, the site, is recommended.
The website offers links to videos with step by step directions, showing the finer nuances of pruning. Additionally there are articles which supplement the videos, both featuring Bert Cregg, Associate Professor of Horticulture at Michigan State University.
Cregg gives clear and understandable directions on why to prune, when to prune and how to prune. Control pruning is important to do with plantings in the first couple of decades. Strayer stated that he sees so many trees which have to be removed when they get too big. By being proactive instead of reactive, pruning can be used to prevent problems.
Chamberlain agreed, and added that getting to know the personality of a tree or shrub is important. Chamberlain described how some can be pushy to their neighbors or “namby-pamby," his term for needy.
By combining the knowledge of controlled pruning and plant habit, specimen plantings will most likely have a longer life. “If they had been pruned years back,” Chamberlain said, “they could have stayed, but they were making dead spots on their neighbor.”
How to make a cut half an inch or so above a bud on a conifer
Finding your Pruning Tools
More advice for the newbie is using the right tool and maintaining them. “Hedge clippers,” Strayer said, shaking his head and putting his arms up defensively, “Hands off.”
For professionals and the obsessed, bypass pruners are key in making clean cuts with live stems or branches. The blade is able to pass by the guide, creating cuts which will heal more quickly and be more aesthetically pleasing.
Anvil type pruners have a blade which stops when it makes contact with the flat cutting surface. Using this on live branches can crush part of the stem or branch tissue. It can also cause tears and create more contact area for pest and disease problems.
“Stay away from the anvil, they are just mashers,” Strayer said. “Avoid buying cheap pruners, they (good quality pruners) are a good investment. Keep them sharp.”
How to trim back the outermost tips to encourages fullness in a conifer plant
Keeping your Pruning Tools in Shape
Keeping tools sharp will make the job not only easier, but will minimize self-injury and less damage to plant pruning. Sanitation between pruning different plants is essential to minimizing the spread of disease. Simple bleach solutions or alcohol swabs are easy enough to become routine.
Guidelines for the right size tool for the stem or branch is 1” in diameter or smaller, pruners will work, while loppers will be best for 2” or larger. Anything thicker, select a hand saw. Cutting the branch back as much as possible before the final cut will lower the weight load and make the work less unwieldy.
Additionally, to decrease damage to the rest of the tree or shrub, make a preliminary cut on the opposite side of main cut to minimize splintering and bark tear.
How to lightly trim back the outermost growth using hand pruners or hedge shears
Finding Hands-On Pruning Practices
Other ideas for building confidence in pruning is to look for hands-on pruning classes through community colleges, botanical gardens, and Master Gardener programs which will provide more practice and instruction. Inquiring at a botanical garden or reputable nursery staff in the off-season for general questions can be helpful.
“You can take off more,” Strayer warns, “but you can’t glue it on.” Everyone has their methods of pruning. Hands-on practice will be the best training. Finding out what others use for guidance will also help as pruning is one part tool and many parts philosophy.
“When you’re pruning,” Chamberlain said, “step back and look at what you’re doing.” This was the advice he was given when he first started working in the Harper Collection.
“The worst time to prune is never,” Strayer said.
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Conifers: Allergy-Friendly Evergreen Trees
By Ronald Elardo
April 5, 2020
Read about an allergy-friendly way to garden and landscape with conifers and evergreen trees.
An allergy-friendly conifer, the female Chilean pine (Araucaria araucana)
Allergies and asthma have been rising at an alarming rate among children and adults worldwide. In the United States alone, 50 million Americans have nasal allergies, in what CBS News (May 11, 2015) has called a “pollen tsunami." And, according to a Rutgers University study, “[b]y 2040, the pollen count will more than double levels in 2000.”
Further, “air pollution and allergies airways disorders through the induction of inflammation and oxidative stress in the lungs [will increase].” The National Center for Biotechnology Information states that: “[e]mission reduction efforts and federal air quality standards have been insufficient to shield children from potentially serious health damage.” Pollen and pollution have become double whammies in the assault against our ability to breathe to sustain life properly.
So, what does all of this have to do with conifers?
A Coniferous Solution to Allergenic Plants
Thomas Leo Ogren has, for the second time in his writing and research career, postulated that, through studying the pollen output of certain plants and trees, harmful pollen can be reduced by planting more female plants, among them many genera of conifer. Why female trees?
Ogren reports that, in the 1940’s, the US Department of Agriculture sought to reduce the amount of seed pod and fruit “pollution” by promoting the production of male plants. The nursery industry responded to the call so that “clonal trees and shrubs became the rule." The industry, with the government’s blessing and encouragement, manipulated the environment.
Since female trees are “messy”, and male trees are not, male plant production went into full swing. Male trees live longer and grow larger, and thus produce more pollen. Ogren writes that: “4 out of every 5 top-selling trees in the US are male trees.” In order to “reverse this unhealthy process,” male trees can be top-grafted in winter, thus giving them a sex-change over to female trees.
Indeed, the nursery industry has a large financial stake in their current inventory of “male trees and clones." But that can be remedied.
Another allergy-friendly evergreen, the common juniper (Juniperus communis)
The Ogren Pollen Allergy List Scale (OPALS)
In addition to sex-change grafting, one other way has been that places like Albuquerque, New Mexico, Las Vegas, Nevada, Toronto, Ontario, Edmonton, Alberta, and the State of California have enacted ordinances to curtail the production and planting of allergenic pollen plants. Because your yard affects you, Ogren presents an Ogren Pollen Allergy List Scale (OPALS), which ranks trees, shrubs and plants according to their nefarious pollen effects, or lack thereof.
An OPALS of 1 is the best kind of plant, 10 the worst in pollen production. In the case of conifers, however, pollen grains have qualifiers. Tom points out that many monoecious plants will have one sex on one branch and another sex on another. In many cases, as propagators take cuttings, they take them from the lower, male branches, thus creating male trees. Tom cites Italian cypress as one prime example.
Tom, in his further research, is always looking to connect with growers in search of female selections (cultivars), like Cephalotaxus, for example. Had Ogren his way, Ginkgo biloba female trees would be preferable for planting. Male ginkgos would be reduced in number, even though the industry produces and promotes and sells the exact opposite.
Ogren Pollen Allergy List Scale (OPALS) for Evergreen Trees
Since conifer genera, for the most part, are monoecious, cross-pollination and pollen-production are far less of a problem. For example, here are the conifer genera/species cited by Ogren and their OPALS rating:
• Abies 2
• Araucaria 1 (for female trees); 7 for male trees Note: Grow them in containers, and far less pollen is produced.
• Callitris 9
• Cedrus atlantica 2
• Cedrus brevifolia 2
• Cedrus deodara 4
• Cedrus deodara ‘Pendula’ 5
• Cedrus libani 2
• Cephalotaxus 1 (female trees); 9 (male trees)
• Chamaecyparis 8
• Cryptomeria japonica 10
• Ginkgo biloba 7 (male trees); 2 (female trees)
• Juniperus (with berries) 1
• Keteleeria 3
• Larix 2
• Metasequoia glyptostroboides 4
• Picea 3
• Pinus 4; Pinus contorta 8 Note: “Although pines shed enormous quantities of pollen grains, the grains are waxy and not highly irritating to mucous membranes. Their potential for allergy is rather low and, when it occurs, not usually severe.”
• Platycladus orientalis 7
• Podocarpus 1 (female trees); 10 (male trees) Pollen is also toxic.
• Pseudolarix kaempferi 3
• Pseudotsuga 3
• Sciadopitys 7
• Sequoia sempervirens 5
• Sequoiadendron giganteum 5
• Taxodium 5
• Taxus 1 (female trees); 10 (male trees) Note that pollen is also toxic.
• Thuja 8
• Thujopsis dolabrata 9
• Tsuga 3
• Wollemia nobilis 4
Many of us like to plant Japanese maples in our gardens and landscapes. On the whole, Acer species (with the exception of Acer rubrum ‘Festival’ OPALS 1) have high OPALS ratings of 5 or more.
An allergy-friendly conifer, the female brown pine (Podocarpus neriifolius)
The Allergy-Fighting Garden
Thomas Ogren has a Master’s degree in agricultural science with an emphasis on plant flowering systems and their relationship to allergies. His research has spanned 30 years. He has written in many publications and authored Allergy-Free Gardening: The Revolutionary Guide to Healthy Landscaping and The Allergy-Fighting Garden: Stop Asthma and Allergies with Smart Landscaping.
Their cost is relatively low. He is the creator of the Ogren Plant Allergy Scale (OPALS), the very first plant-allergy ranking system. He has been a consultant to the American Lung Association, the USDA, the city of Christchurch, New Zealand, the California Department of Public Health, Allegra, and Johnson & Johnson. His voice has been heard on the Canadian Discovery Channel and as radio-show host. His email is [email protected].
The Allergy-Fighting Garden: Stop Asthma and Allergies with Smart Landscaping is printed by Ten Speed Press, Berkeley. It offers 244 pages, jam-packed with information sections. In Part I, Tom begins the discussion of plant biology, fighting allergy-causing agents in your neighborhood and city, understanding plant sex and allergies, eliminating mold spores, and allergy-blocking hedges. Part II introduces the OPALS concept and, most importantly, plant rankings according to their OPALS.
A Useful Conifer Guide for Garden-Owners and Landscapers
Plants are listed according to genus and species. Common names are also provided with reference to botanical nomenclature. This is an extremely important listing. Ogren also provides a Glossary of Horticultural Terms such as bract, monoecious and dioecious, and so much more. Tom provides a listing of Recommended Readings to educate further his audience.
The book also provides Useful Websites for readers to consult. There is a Pollen Calendar, which lists plants by genus with their pollen production months, and USDA Zone maps. The Index assists the reader in searching the text. Thomas Ogren’s work is a must-have reference book for all who are sensitive to allergy-causing pollens and who landscape either for themselves or for their clients. Tom’s work is also a great reference work for communities which are trying to clean up the air their children and adults breathe in.
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Posted By Admin,
Tuesday, June 6, 2023
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By Web Editor
October 11, 2019
Learn about variegated ginkgos with Mr Maple co-founder, Tim Nichols.
Ginkgo biloba ‘Snow Cloud’ during summer
Propagation and Cultivation of Ginkgos
First, I don’t think I can talk about cultivation of ginkgo without talking about giving them lime. Ginkgos prefer a more alkaline growing condition. You will notice a big difference in the health and growth of a tree with a more alkaline pH vs. a more acidic pH.
Variegated ginkgos are sought by collectors for their unique character and interesting variegated foliage. Many can prove difficult to propagate while maintaining the variegation. One common tactic is to prune out “reversions." While this method may be effective from time to time, some non-variegated branches may appear variegated the following year, while variegated branching may show no variegation the following year. It is still important, as with most variegated plants, to produce from plants that display the most stable variegation.
Another method is to give variegated ginkgos more sun. Often variegated ginkgos lose variegation more quickly in shadier conditions than in sunnier growing conditions. At our nursery, we have played around with the idea of rooting variegated selections, but these same problems appear to affect both grafted selections and rooted selections.
Ginkgo biloba ‘Jagged Jester’
Ginkgo Cultivars: 'Jagged Jester'
While ‘Variegata’ may be the most common of the striped variegated selections, many other cultivars exist, such as ‘California Sunset’, ‘Jerry Verkade’, ‘Joe’s Great Ray’, ‘Majestic Butterfly’, ‘Sunstream’ and ‘White Lightning’, to name only a few. Some of these may have a white striping variegation, while others may be more a creamy yellow. All of these striped, variegated selections can revert and do so frequently.
Ginkgo biloba 'Jagged Jester' is one of the most unique ginkgos I have seen. While this variegated plant still can revert, it reverts to one of my favorites, ‘Jagged Jade’, which has thick attractive foliage. Some believe this thicker leaf to be an indicator of a polyploid ginkgo, but I don’t know anyone who has tested this in a lab.
'Jagged Jester' was found as a variegated sport on the cultivar 'Jagged Jade' by one of our friends, Crispin Silva in Moalla, Oregon. We would expect 'Jagged Jester' to grow to 5 or 6 feet in 15 years. Fall color is a bright neon yellow.
Ginkgo biloba ‘Pevé Maribo’ showing color
Ginkgo Cultivars: ‘Pevé Maribo’
‘Pevé Maribo’ is a variegated sport that was found on the ever popular dwarf ‘Mariken’ by Piet Vergeldt in the Netherlands. The creamy yellow variegation gives this dwarf a little extra added flare and makes it unique. While this variegation is just as unstable as other variegated ginkgos, it reverts to ‘Mariken’, a 2010 ACS Collectors’ Conifer of the year. This isn’t a very risky plant, as either way it will be beautiful, dense and compact. ‘Pevé Maribo’ may reach 4 feet x 5 feet in 10 years.
Ginkgo biloba ‘Beijing Gold’ with Summer Variegated Flush
Ginkgo Cultivars: ‘Beijing Gold’
‘Beijing Gold’ is a uniquely variegated ginkgo that doesn’t revert. In the spring, older plants may leaf out completely yellow. As the spring progresses, chlorophyll pushes green into the leaf while the yellow begins to leave. By late spring to early summer, the foliage has turned to a solid green. New growth during the summer will often display white striped variegation.
While the older growth does not show this variegation, this ginkgo does not revert. Fall color, like most ginkgos, is a bright, neon-yellow. While the name makes one think this tree originated in China, the farthest I can trace this tree back is to the Netherlands in the late 1990’s to early 2000’s. ‘Beijing Gold’ may reach 8 to 10 feet in 15 years.
Ginkgo biloba ‘Snow Cloud’
Ginkgo Cultivars: ‘Snow Cloud’
‘Snow Cloud’ is perhaps my favorite ginkgo, primarily because it doesn’t revert and displays a snow-like frosty variegation. Originally brought over from Japan by our good friend Barry Yinger of Asiatica Nursery, the original name on this ginkgo was ‘Frosty’.
Years later, as soon as we tracked down a ‘Frosty’ from one of Barry’s customers, we started grafting it and getting it into production. ‘Snow Cloud’ hit the market, which happens to be the same tree. While ‘Frosty’ may have been the original name, ‘Snow Cloud’ is now the more accepted name in the nursery trade.
In hot climates, the white frosted variegation will fade more, but it always puts on a great spring display of variegation. Give 'Snow Cloud' morning sun and protection from the hot afternoon sun for best variegation. Fall color is a bright, golden yellow. We expect 'Snow Cloud' to reach 6 to 8 feet in 10 years.
Text and photographs by Tim Nichols.
Tim Nichols is co-founder of MrMaple; he and his brother, Matt, own a nursery near Asheville, NC with over 1,000 cultivars of Japanese maples alone. Click here to visit their website.
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